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How to clean the carburetors on the SuperMagna
 

Here is the info:

This comes up quite often, and there has been a suggestion to place some info in the FAQ on the main web page. John Vasseur, and R X Hawk have detailed what it takes to clean the carbs of the Super Magna. The following is a compilation of posts 2872.11, 2872.18 and a few others (thanks Matt).

Please use at your leisure.

1. Remove seats and gas tank, disconnect gas line behind lower left air box.

2. Remove both side air box covers.

3. On right side unplug all wires, and take out all Phillips screws holding the plastic air box backings onto the bike.

4. Carefully remove the plastic boxes, the right side is hard to get around the radiator hose, but it can be done.

5. After removing the side air box cover plastic, loosen all air filter screws and take off the upper section of the filter first, next take out the filter. Under the filter you have another plastic box. Take those screws out and slide the box out to the shifter side.

6. When you get all that done start loosening all the clamps to the carbs, once they are loosened you might have to pry on them a bit to break them loose, they tend to adhere to the intake.Its easier to get them out with 2 people. Another suggestion is to take a long screw driver to place under the front carb and use the hump in the back side of the cylinder head (where the cam chain is) as a pry point. It's easier to get the front carbs loose first and then pull forward to get the rear carbs out.

7. When you get the carbs out start taking off the throttle cables and choke cable, it's much easier to take these off and put them on when they are off the bike. Just remember how you route the cables. The throttle cable with 2 nuts on it is the front cable and the single nut cable is the rear. Just remember that. Also when taking the throttle cables off, it is much easier removing the 2 Phillips screws that hold the THROTTLE CABLE bracket to the carbs and then remove the cables out of the carbs linkage. This way, NO throttle cable adjusting is needed. And it makes it much easier to reinstall everything. If you do this there is no need to worry about how the cables are routed, as they will hang right where you left them.  Others have stated that you don't have to remove the throttle cables - if you do, count the number of threads exposed on the adjustable throttle cable because this needs to be put back exactly as it came off or your throttle play will be off (loose or tight). You can leave the throttle cables attached and put a stool next to the bike on the left side and work on the carbs right there. It's one less thing to screw up. Also, If you are going to leave the throttle cables on while cleaning, be VERY CAREFUL with the spray can of carb cleaner, as it could damage chrome/paint finishes.

8. When you get them out of the bike you got it licked. Turn the carbs upside down. Remember they are still filled with gas in the bowls. Loosen each and every screw in the bottom of each carbs (4 per carb) and carefully break each lower cap off the bottoms and you can save the rubber seals and reuse them again.

9. When you get the bottoms off, you'll see 2 jets per carb, is a flat screwdriver to remove one and a 5.5 mm on the others. Remember, the 108's go in the front and are number on each jet, 105's to the rear. Throw all jets in the solution you get from AutoZone or your local parts store. A 1-gallon carb cleaner dip tank with basket. Put it outside if you can with the lid on it. This stuff smells real bad.

10. On the floats, remove each pin and take out the floats and make sure the seat moves up and down freely and make sure the little spring loaded button on the seat buttons move up and down freely. There is a specific distance the floats should sit away from the side of the housing (in their path of travel) when the floats are just touching the needles. This is the float adjustment and you change it by bending the metal tab at the base of the float that presses against the needle. See the Service Manual or the Clymer Manual for the measurement and procedure.

11. Take off the upper chrome caps, they have needles in them, just pull them out, blow air in each hole under the cap 3 or 4 in there, use only bout 25 -30 lbs of pressure, and make sure when you put it back together you line up the gasket right, it has a hole that lines up on one side of it, you can't miss it. Apparently on some Magna models, the springs on the backs of the slides differ slightly between carbs - do not mix up the springs.

12. Blow air thru each port or every opening on the bottom side too using only 25-30lbs there too. Spray carb cleaner in all openings. It will clean it out real good.

13. When you pull the jets out of solution run a wire thru the jets, even if they don't look dirty in there, there is residue and must be cleaned out with a wire. DON'T REAM THE HOLES OUT. You can use a wire bristle off a wire brush. Make sure to soak the jets over night in solution, it does make a difference, believe me I know. I got impatient and had to do this twice cause I didn't have the solution the first time.

 

That's it, reassemble the same way you took it apart. Supplies / tips :

1 gallon of carb cleaner solution with a basket.

Get 3 cans of carb cleaner spray to clean inside and outside of carbs.

Just remember on the socket headed jets, the 108's go in the front carbs and the 105's go in the rear carbs. They have #'s on them so look closely.

California models have 105's in the front and rear.

The carbs are difficult to reseat. Before trying to reseat the carbs, you might want to soak the rubbers in hot (touchable - not too hot) water. It makes them very pliable. Get the rear carbs seated firmly first then use two small flat-head screwdrivers to work the right front carb into it's seat and then the left front. A second person really helps with this, as you need to add some downward pressure wile your working the carbs into the seats. Another suggestion is that two metal shoehorns may make this easier.