Prakash George's guide to baffling your gutted stock pipes

PARTS:   

Internal Baffles  - $3.99 each  (JC Whitney 4").  You may need longer ones if your pipes are completely gutted. 1-3/4” OD,   Part No:  ZX013524N 

Packing Material - $ 5.99 per sheet (JC Whitney  15 X 19 Sheet).  You may need more sheets if you use longer baffles.  Part No:  ZX061536W 

End Cap - $ 2.83 each  (LOWEs Hardware Pipe Flange).  Different shapes available. Part No: 228272, 1 ½ OD, Suregrip   Manufacturer:  The Keeney Manufacturing Company.  Item 867K

INSTRUCTIONS: 

Step 1:              Decide if you went to drill your pipes for installation or have the seam-less (bolt-less look).  I decided to go with the bolt-less look, but it required some work.  If you decide to drill holes, drill 2-3 holes on you pipes with matching holes on your end caps.  These will help keep the baffle setup secure.  If your pipes do not have the “turned in portion on the end (inside), the “bolt-less” look won’t work, you will have to drill hole or find other ways to keep the baffle setup in place.  

Step 2:              If you decided not to drill the pipes, you still need to drill 3 holes 1/8 inch diameter, equal distance apart on your end caps.  The hole should be about ½ from the edge of the end cap.  See the following diagram.

Make some “L” shaped metal clip to bolt on to the end caps as shown above.  The clips should be just long enough to snap on to the turned in portion inside the pipes.  This will give a clean look.  I used some picture hanging clips and 1/8” bolts.  If you use small bolts, you will have to grind off the heads so that the setup can slide in to the pipe.  It is a tight fit. 

Step 3:  Drive the baffles into the end-cap.  The hole in the end-cap is smaller than the baffle, but this is good… it will help keep the baffle in tight.  You can use JB weld or something that can stand the heat to attach the baffle securely to the end cap.  You can also weld it, but the end cap is pretty thin.  I used JB weld and seems to be working OK.   

Step 4:  Once you attach the baffle to the end cap, play around with varying amount of packing to get the best result.  I wrapped the baffles tight with multiple layers of packing, but the sound was too quiet.  So, I ended with just one layer of packing around the baffle.  DO NOT SLIDE THE BAFFLE SETUP ALL THE WAY IN WHEN YOU ARE EXPERIMENTING.  IF YOU DO, THE SETUP WILL CLIP INTO THE PIPE AND YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO PULL IT OUT.    

Step 5:  Once you find the right amount of packing, wrap it and tie is to the baffle with some metal wire.   If your pipes are completely gutted, you will need something at the end of the baffles to keep the packing from sliding off.  You can find flat flanges at Home Depot or Lowe’s that may work.  Just make sure packing is secure on the baffle setup.

Step 6:  Slide the assembly into the pipe.  You may have to tap it a little to get the clips to clip in.  Make sure they are secure.

NOTE:  I think the most difficult part is getting the clips to the right height and right shape.  They need to be able to just “clip in” to the inside when you slide the setup all the way in.  I don’t know any other way to describe it.  You will have to play around with it a little.   If you have any questions, e-mail me on the forum or call me directly at 214-415-8656

PICTURES: